Urchin redux (with pattern)

EDIT 2 Feb 08: I've made yet another version, go here to check it out. You will have to combine the instructions below and the modifications in the new version to make it. I've also made a few corrections and clarifications in this pattern.

Last Wednesday after the knit meet, Angela and I were walking towards the metro and we were talking about the fact that when your hair completely disappears in a hat, it looks as if one has gone through chemo. I knew what she was talking about but that brutally illustrated with my new hair cut. I guess I'll have to keep in mind how I'll look before I pick a hat pattern. I finished redoing the Sea Urchin hat and when I first tried it on, I didn't like the no haired look. But I'm sure it would have looked great with my locs.


But then I decided to wear the hat the way I usually see berets worn. I liked it better but I don't like walking around with a bare forhead in sub-freezing temperatures.


Then I cocked it to one side, the way I usually wear my berets for work and I liked this version even better. But I don't think I'll be rocking this style too often for that very reason though. This version here is complely to one side but I can also bring a bit forward and it looks just as nice.


Finally I thought, why not bring the brim completely forward, paperboy style. I had to say I love this one the most. This is how I've been and will be wearing it.

Below, the pattern. I really reread it a million to make sure it's correct. Imagine my horror when someone who made the original urchin comment on the mistake on the decrease. But anyway I hope you enjoy. It's basically the original urchin pattern adapted to this version.

Material

2 hanks of yarn. I used O-Wool (a nice organic merino yarn) wich has a gauge of about 4,5 sts per inch, using 5.5 - 6.5 mm/US 8-10 needles . The yarn will be used double stranded (in other words, you need two skeins, balls, hanks, whatever...). Each hank has 181 meters of yarn

One 6,5 mm circ 100 cm/40 inches (worked like a charm last time so why change a good thing). It will be used magic looped. But I guess an 60 cm will do fine

One cable hook (but seriously, it would be best if you knew how to cable without one, it makes it less of hassle)

One tapestry needle

Eight st markers

Gauge

3,5 sts/2,5 cm - 1 inch in stockinette st, double stranded.


Abbreviations and symbols:

* *: Repeat the pattern in between the asterisks until the end of the round

M1P: Make one st purlwise

P2T: Purl two sts together

C2F: You do a left leaning twist using you cable needle. Without the cable, you place the right needle in the back, insert it in the second st on the left needle and k, then without slipping the sts off the left needle, you knit the first st. Now you slip the sts off the left needle.

C2R: You do a right leaning twist using your cable needle. Without the cable hook, you place the right needle at the front, insert it in the second st on the left needle and knit. Then without slipping the sts off the left needle, you knit the first st. Now you slip the sts off the left needle.

Icord: P the sts, slide the sts along the circ to the other end, then without turning the needle around, P again

Important:

a. This time, the hat is worked right side out.
b. The yarn is again used double stranded.
c. Do I have to specify that when you reach the st marker, you have to slip it from the left to right needle before you can move on?

Instruction

CO 68 sts using two strands of yarn, place a st maker and join without twisting.

Round 1 and 3: *K2, P2*
Round 2: *C2F, P2*
Round 4: *C2B, P2*

Edited: I lost this beret so I made another one with another rib that I like better:

Round 1 to 3: *P1, K1 through the back of the loop*

Increase row: *P2, M1P*. You now have 102 sts.

Round 1a: P until the end

Round 2a: *P1 in the st below, K1*. Note: unlike the last time where I simply k in the st below because that's what the st pattern book said, turns out it does make the ridges more distinct.

Repeat rows 1a and 2a until the hat measures 10 cm - 4 inches from the beginning, ending with round 2a.

Decrease:

When working the ribbed rows (the even numbered rows), keep in mind the sts you have in front of you. The 2nd st after the st maker will either be a P st or P in the st below. The last stitch before you slip the st marker will always be a P st.

Round 1b: *P2T, P 32, place st marker*
Round 2b and alternate rows: *P1, work just like the rib st above (round 2) until the st marker*
Round 3 b: *P2T, P until st marker*. Note: REMOVE THE ST MARKERS IN THIS ROUND EXCEPT THE ONE MARKING THE BEGINNING OF THE ROW. At this point you now have 96 sts
Round 5b: *P2T, P 10, place st marker*
Round 7b: *P2T, P until the st maker*

Repeat rounds 2b followed by 7b until you have 8 sts left, ending with round 2b. You may want to remove the st markers at this point (except for the one that marks the beginning of the round) because they're a hassle. At least they were for me. Note: If you don't want the Icord finish, then cut the yarn leaving an 8 inch tail, remove the st marker, weave the yarn it through the live sts, pull tight and then weave it in the hat . And you're done.

For the Icord:

Next 2 rounds: P2T until the end of the round. You now have 2 sts left. Remove the st marker. Using the Icord method above, make a 1 inch tail. Break the yarn leaving a 6 inch tail, pass the yarn through the live sts and pull tight. You can weave the leftover yarn into the tail and then break it off the leftover yarn.

Enjoy!